Inuit Culture

I have learned so much about Inuit culture since arriving in Nunavut in August, and I am grateful to my Inuit friends and colleagues for sharing their culture with me daily.  The Inuit people have a long and fascinating history, and their inventiveness and resilience is inspiring.  Their arts and crafts are outstanding, and some of the handiwork I have seen for sale is incredible: beautiful handmade parkas, sealskin kamiks (boots), jewelry, toques, quilts, in addition to carvings and prints.  Many communities have a sewing centre where sewers congregate to sew and share ideas and skills. The Inuit also have an incredible history of oral legends and myths, many with fantastical creatures, including shape shifters!  Google Inuit legends or mythology to find out more, if this interests you. There are also a number of books of legends available through book stores.

                                                                                  (image: http://www.inuitmyths.com/ijirait.htm)

The qulliq is the traditional Inuit oil lamp/stove.  It was used to keep tents and igloos warm, and for cooking bannock and other items.  The fuel is whale or seal blubber and the wicks are specific types of moss or other plants.

I have had the opportunity to try a variety of "country food" as the food of the land is called.  The traditional Inuit diet has been identified as one of the healthiest in the world, and it contains all of the vitamins and nutrients required to maintain a healthy body.  For southerners, it is hard to imagine a land of permafrost located above the tree-line where vegetation is limited to low,  ground-hugging plants and flowers that grow only in the short summer season.  Naturally, this means that ones primary food source here must come from the sea: fish (arctic char is wonderful), seals, beluga, whales, walrus, seaweed, and other seafood.  Because there is no source of wood for fires, food from the land is often eaten raw or frozen.

Muktuk (beluga) Inuit sushi!

Walrus Stew

Hand made nasak (hat)

2015 Cape Dorset Print Show and Auction

Cape Dorset is called the "Capital of Inuit Art" for good reason.  Twenty-two percent of its inhabitants make their living in the arts and crafts industry through printmaking, carving or other forms of art.   Each fall the printmaking shop releases its annual collection through its marketing arm, Dorset Fine Arts in Toronto, and around this time of year, one set of the prints is sold on site in Cape Dorset where the prints are made.  Today was the big day, and I was fortunate to be able to attend the 2015 Print Collection Show and Sale at the print shop.

Normally, the event is packed with people, but today the weather wasn't very cooperative, and it was very cold (-23) with gusts of cold wind up to 60 km/hr blowing at the opening time of 5 p.m.  It was also Radio Bingo night, so perhaps that is why attendance was down.  This was all good news for me though, as it meant I wouldn't have to arm wrestle for my favourite print!

The prints were displayed around the shop on tables and walls, and surrounded by the tools of the trade.  Numbered post-it notes assigned each print a number and the sale catalogue provided the artist details and prices.

It was hard deciding on a print.  I knew I wanted to purchase one, if there was one that caught my eye, because I couldn't think of a nicer souvenir of my time here in Cape Dorset than a Cape Dorset print.  There were about thirty prints to choose from, and I really liked this one titled "Polar Bear in Camp" by Papiara Tukiki (Stonecut and Stencil) and the one below titled "Opulent Owl" by Ningeokuluk Teevee (Stonecut).

In the end, after much humming and hawing, I decided upon "Dog with Kamiks" by Ningeokuluk Teevee (stonecut and stencil, 59 x 50 cm).  I love the subject, texture, colours, and movement.  I can't wait to see it mounted and hanging!

Which would you choose?  If you would like to view the complete collection, go to http://www.dorsetfinearts.com/2015-print-collection/ .

Dog with Kamiks

Hmmm...what should I have for dinner tonight?

I have two grocery stores to choose from in Cape Dorset: the Northmart and the West Baffin Eskimo Coop, a.k.a "The Co-op."  They both sell many of the same brands of food one can find in B.C. The house brand at Northmart is "Compliments" and the Co-op has their own Co-op house brand. They have a difficult job bringing in food to this isolated community, and they both do a great job of providing Cape Dorset with a regular supply of food.  They will even bring in items, if asked.

I haven't seen any nanaimo bars or BC salmon on the shelves, but there are a few items that Newfoundlanders would find reminiscent of home, I am sure:  Purity brand cookies, partridgeberry jam and "Pilot Biscuits."  I recently heard on the CBC that a package of pilot biscuits saved from the Titanic was auctioned off at Christy's, I believe, so when I saw the row of pilot biscuits in the Northmart, I was intrigued. They look rather plain, however, but I am sure they would last a long time out on the land or at sea providing a valuable food source in tough times.

I have mentioned the state of fresh produce in the north in previous postings, so it's time to get to the canned goods!  Among the rows of the typical fare, one can find such gems as Quebec maple syrup, St. Hubert turkey gravy and an absolutely stunning array of canned meats: Klik, Spam, Prem, Old Vienna Sausages, and Holiday Luncheon Meat! The choice is amazing! :)

But my absolute favourite, and the one I am most curious about, are the cans of entire, complete  whole.....chickens - minus the giblets and neck, mind you. for $16.45.

Hallowe'en News:  Today is Hallowe'en and the kids up here are so hardy to be going out trick-or-treating in the -15 or so weather. The hamlet announced on the radio  that trick-or-treating will be restricted to between the hours of 4 p.m. and 6 p.m., because of the recent problems with polar bears in town at night. Yikes!

 Just to make you feel warm and cozy, here are a few photos from the walk I took at noon today down to the bay.  As you can see the bay is starting to freeze up. As they say on the Game of Thrones, "Winter is coming, John Snow!"

Friday Night in Cape Dorset

I mentioned my recent foray with Radio Bingo on Facebook tonight and thought I would share my experience with you more fully here.

I have always loved Bingo, even though my most memorable win ever was a frozen turkey at a Catholic school bingo in North Van in the '80's.  I love the rituals and superstitious quirks of the characters with their lucky trinkets encircling their bingo cards, and who could forget hearing the shouts of "legs 11" and "Oh! 69."  I'm not sure why I stopped going, but perhaps it was the smoke-filled rooms.  I haven't been to Bingo in decades.

Last month, I saw an ad posted in the Northmart for Radio Bingo, and my curiosity was piqued, but I was unsure of how Radio Bingo worked.  I asked around and found out that shortly after the 7:00 CBC News, the first game of Bingo is called over the radio.  Everyone sits at home around the radio with their lucky Bingo cards that they purchased earlier in the afternoon at the Northmart for $50--$10 extra for the Bonanza game, plus $10 for an extra sheet of cards.  There are six or seven games played over the evening, and each player has a paper sheet of nine cards each that they play per game and of course, their lucky dauber.   Not having brought such a special item from down south when I moved up here, I was glad to see a nice selection for sale at the Northmart.  I chose red as my lucky blue was sold out.

I was invited to play at  my co-workers home along with a visiting Instructor from the college--we were three ladies who were ready to win!  The first game was pretty tame-- four corners.  Who needs to mark the "Free Space" for this one, I thought. Fortunately for me, the numbers were called in English and not Inuktitut, because I would have been totally lost if it were the latter.  None of us were close on the first game, but the night was young and there was plenty of time.  The next game was one line any way, and the games became more intricate- and more suspenseful- as the evening wore on.  My favourite was the inukshuk shape. I made sure to mark it in pen on my cards, so I would be certain to spot one when I won.  (There is something about having to telephone in via a satellite telephone system that adds suspense to calling Bingo! --"Can I call in in time before the next number is called??")

I shall put an end to your fingernail biting now and end the suspense. No, I didn't win that night, nor did my friends.  I didn't even come close.  But we shared some homemade Strawberry Chiffon cake baked fresh that day, and we had a lot of fun.

Maybe I need to find some lucky trinkets for next time, or maybe even buy a new dauber.... LIKE THESE!!!  Cheers, until next time....Under the O, 69!

Arctic Fox: Rabies Alert

The Nunatsiaq News Online (http://www.nunatsiaqonline.ca/) keeps me informed about Nunavut news and northern perspectives on issues.  It has been particularly interesting during the recent federal election.  Internet speeds are very slow in Nunavut.  So slow, in fact, that streaming is problematic; consequently, Nunavummiut were not able to view any of the online Federal election debates during the election. Now that's democracy in action :)

But here is the real story I wanted to share with you today.  Below is a photo of an Arctic Fox that appeared on the front page of the Nunatsiaq News this morning.  The caption reads: "A perennial favourite among northern photographers: the Arctic Fox.  This one, spotted at the Cambridge Bay dump Oct. 9, is shedding its summer brown fur and patchy tufts of winter white are beginning to show through.  Though there have been an increase in fox sightings lately in the western Nunavut's largest town, there has been no corresponding increase in reports of rabies.  But hamlet officials remain concerned.  Dog owners can get their animals vaccinated against rabies rhrough the hamlet bylaw office or through Diamonds in the Ruff.  Officials are also asking that children abide by a curfew for Halloween by ending their trick-or-treating by 8 p.m. (Photo by Denise Lebleu Images)"  Happy Hallowe'en!

Frost Flowers

I was just checking out the Nunavut online newspaper the NunatsiaqOnline and found this lovely photo of something I have never seen before: Frost Flowers.

According to the paper, "A field of tiny frost flowers grows on the thin ice in Cambridge Bay Oct. 13. For frost flowers to grow, you need a minimum temperature difference of 15 degrees C between the ice surface and the air. Under bright sun and little wind, temperatures in this western Nunavut town ranged between -12 C and -16 C on Oct. 13. (Photo by Jane George)."

Hockey Season is here!

It's Thanksgiving Monday and my wee turkey is in the oven. The sun is so bright today, and I have just gone out for a walk to the little lake next to my place.  There I found a group of kids playing hockey. Only one has a stick, but that hasn't stopped them from moving the puck around. I am missing my Canucks, but I hear they beat Calgary this week, so it sounds like they are off to a good start.

Between the GN building and the lake is a row of "sea cans," as they are called here, storing a variety of supplies. It is common to see sea containers as storage containers throughout the north whereever supply ships can reach.

This photo doesn't do it justice, but the snow here is so dry, it sparkles like diamonds.

The little brook that I walk by on my way to work is now freezing over. I will miss its gentle sound...

The perseverance award goes to this boy for riding his bike up this hill with a slippery, snowy surface!

Snow has arrived!

It is Thanksgiving weekend and the sun is out shining brightly on the fresh snow.  We have had snow off and on for a while now, but it seems like it is here to stay now.  Here are a few photos from my walk today. For those curious about food prices in the north, this week I bought a wee turkey from the Northern store for $30, a can of cranberries for $4.59,  a 5 pound bag of potatoes for $6.89, frozen peas for $4.59.  Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

 The satellite dishes which remind of the new Shaw Direct satellite dish I have sitting my living room.  I assembled it  this week, but am still unable to find anyone to install it for me!  I was hoping to have it up and running by election night. Shaw does not have anyone authorized in town to install, so I have to ask around for someone who might do it.

The walk down the hill to the downtown area and where I work.

A look back at my townhouse complex behind the blue GN building. The arena is to the left. The name for this mountain is also the name of my neighbourhood. Any guesses on the name?  Hint: It is named a piece of human anatomy :)

The sunrise taken from my front porch a few days ago.                                                      

The same sunrise a few minutes later..

Cape Dorset Plant Life

Today, it is snowing with a mix of rain and wind speeds are expected to be up to 90 km/hr! I have been warned to watch for flying debris as I walk home today after work.  I hope the wind is at my back, so it pushes me up the hill!  I shall keep my eyes peeled for flying boards or ATV's!  Last week while out on a walk, I photgraphed the variety of low-growing plants I found growing so close to the ground.  I don't remember the names of these plants, but my co-worker took me out on a short walk and told me which ones were edible.

The Dorset Island is very rocky with very little "soil," so the plants cling to the surface.

Wild low-growing blueberries grow here, but they did not produce a crop this summer to much disappointment.

The view looking towards "the valley" area of Cape Dorset on a beautiful sunny day.

Scenes from Cape Dorset

I work in a modern learning centre with four classroom, including a PC lab.  During the summer the windows are boarded up to protect the windows while the centre is not in use.

Community Learning Centre: Arctic College

The Centre is located right next to the high school.  Here is photo of the school taken a few days before it burned down. If you look to the right, you will see the low, blue building where I work.

Peter Pitseolak High School

I live in a 3-bed townhouse right at the edge of town on the top of a long hill.  This makes for a great walk to work, and a great workout on the way home! Houses here are built on stilts set into the permafrost.  What looks like a basement is actually a crawl space where the stilts and piping, etc are located.  

My place with its 14 steps up the front door.

My view out my back window is often of this fellow doing his carving.  Cape Dorset is known around the world for its fine carving and print work.  Something like 24% of the population makes its living as artists.

I can't end my post without a few more view shots! Here is a shot of the bay where the polar bear came into town.  You can see the blue and red  high school building in the centre right.  That is near the downtown area.

The bay at low tide. 

Here is a fishboat in the bay.

At Home in Cape Dorset

I have been in Cape Dorset for two weeks now, and during this time I have experienced the thrills of starting afresh in a new community, but also the lows of watching the only high school in town burn down.

My view as I walk to work each morning in Cape Dorset.

Everyone is so friendly, and I am enjoying the beautiful arctic char fish and fresh air.  Temperatures are getting cooler each morning. Today is was 2 degrees C when I walked to the college this morning.  There are some vehicles in town-4 wheel drive trucks for work use, mostly - but many people get around by ATV, or on foot.  Everything is walkable.

The sunsets are gorgeous.

Last weekend, the high school burned down, and it has been devastating to the community.  It was a beautiful school recently renovated.  I was at the graduation ceremony the night before the fire and was so impressed with the speeches, decorations and celebratory feeling of the event. It will be a challenge to replace given the difficulty in getting building supplies here.

The high school burning