Friday 1 January 2016

Christmas in Nunavut



I haven't posted for a while, as it has been a busy time heading into Christmas.  I was in the capital city, Iqaluit, teaching an Arts Education course to a delightful class of students for the first three weeks of December and was staying at the nearby Frobisher Inn which has a movie theatre, a pub, a restaurant and mini-mart--everything the visitor would need!  I have a few photos to share of my time there. 
 There was a nice selection of furs on sale. 
Barbie with Amauti. She'll need some snow pants though!

Chalkers Beef Navels anyone? $29.99 a tub. 
This was hanging in the Frobisher Pub. It looks very authentic (NW Mounted Police was the precursor of the RCMP).
Traditional Ulu - meat cutting tool - with a caribou antler handle.

Santa Claus parade at noon - 1.5 hours before sunset. 
1:30 in the afternoon walk on Frobisher Bay in Iqaluit. 
Did I mention it is really getting cold here some days? -48 with wind chill was the coldest!  I'm calling this photo "Northern Self Portrait." 😁

Canadian North flight home to Cape Dorset.
Happy New Year! 

Tuesday 17 November 2015

Inuit Culture

I have learned so much about Inuit culture since arriving in Nunavut in August, and I am grateful to my Inuit friends and colleagues for sharing their culture with me daily.  The Inuit people have a long and fascinating history, and their inventiveness and resilience is inspiring.  Their arts and crafts are outstanding, and some of the handiwork I have seen for sale is incredible: beautiful handmade parkas, sealskin kamiks (boots), jewelry, toques, quilts, in addition to carvings and prints.  Many communities have a sewing centre where sewers congregate to sew and share ideas and skills. The Inuit also have an incredible history of oral legends and myths, many with fantastical creatures, including shape shifters!  Google Inuit legends or mythology to find out more, if this interests you. There are also a number of books of legends available through book stores.


                                                                                  (image: http://www.inuitmyths.com/ijirait.htm)

The qulliq is the traditional Inuit oil lamp/stove.  It was used to keep tents and igloos warm, and for cooking bannock and other items.  The fuel is whale or seal blubber and the wicks are specific types of moss or other plants.



I have had the opportunity to try a variety of "country food" as the food of the land is called.  The traditional Inuit diet has been identified as one of the healthiest in the world, and it contains all of the vitamins and nutrients required to maintain a healthy body.  For southerners, it is hard to imagine a land of permafrost located above the tree-line where vegetation is limited to low,  ground-hugging plants and flowers that grow only in the short summer season.  Naturally, this means that ones primary food source here must come from the sea: fish (arctic char is wonderful), seals, beluga, whales, walrus, seaweed, and other seafood.  Because there is no source of wood for fires, food from the land is often eaten raw or frozen.

Muktuk (beluga) Inuit sushi!




Walrus Stew

Hand made nasak (hat)








Friday 6 November 2015

2015 Cape Dorset Print Show and Auction

Cape Dorset is called the "Capital of Inuit Art" for good reason.  Twenty-two percent of its inhabitants make their living in the arts and crafts industry through printmaking, carving or other forms of art.   Each fall the printmaking shop releases its annual collection through its marketing arm, Dorset Fine Arts in Toronto, and around this time of year, one set of the prints is sold on site in Cape Dorset where the prints are made.  Today was the big day, and I was fortunate to be able to attend the 2015 Print Collection Show and Sale at the print shop.



Normally, the event is packed with people, but today the weather wasn't very cooperative, and it was very cold (-23) with gusts of cold wind up to 60 km/hr blowing at the opening time of 5 p.m.  It was also Radio Bingo night, so perhaps that is why attendance was down.  This was all good news for me though, as it meant I wouldn't have to arm wrestle for my favourite print!



The prints were displayed around the shop on tables and walls, and surrounded by the tools of the trade.  Numbered post-it notes assigned each print a number and the sale catalogue provided the artist details and prices.



It was hard deciding on a print.  I knew I wanted to purchase one, if there was one that caught my eye, because I couldn't think of a nicer souvenir of my time here in Cape Dorset than a Cape Dorset print.  There were about thirty prints to choose from, and I really liked this one titled "Polar Bear in Camp" by Papiara Tukiki (Stonecut and Stencil) and the one below titled "Opulent Owl" by Ningeokuluk Teevee (Stonecut).



In the end, after much humming and hawing, I decided upon "Dog with Kamiks" by Ningeokuluk Teevee (stonecut and stencil, 59 x 50 cm).  I love the subject, texture, colours, and movement.  I can't wait to see it mounted and hanging!

Which would you choose?  If you would like to view the complete collection, go to http://www.dorsetfinearts.com/2015-print-collection/ .


Dog with Kamiks


Saturday 31 October 2015

Hmmm...what should I have for dinner tonight?

I have two grocery stores to choose from in Cape Dorset: the Northmart and the West Baffin Eskimo Coop, a.k.a "The Co-op."  They both sell many of the same brands of food one can find in B.C. The house brand at Northmart is "Compliments" and the Co-op has their own Co-op house brand. They have a difficult job bringing in food to this isolated community, and they both do a great job of providing Cape Dorset with a regular supply of food.  They will even bring in items, if asked.

I haven't seen any nanaimo bars or BC salmon on the shelves, but there are a few items that Newfoundlanders would find reminiscent of home, I am sure:  Purity brand cookies, partridgeberry jam and "Pilot Biscuits."  I recently heard on the CBC that a package of pilot biscuits saved from the Titanic was auctioned off at Christy's, I believe, so when I saw the row of pilot biscuits in the Northmart, I was intrigued. They look rather plain, however, but I am sure they would last a long time out on the land or at sea providing a valuable food source in tough times.

I have mentioned the state of fresh produce in the north in previous postings, so it's time to get to the canned goods!  Among the rows of the typical fare, one can find such gems as Quebec maple syrup, St. Hubert turkey gravy and an absolutely stunning array of canned meats: Klik, Spam, Prem, Old Vienna Sausages, and Holiday Luncheon Meat! The choice is amazing! :)




But my absolute favourite, and the one I am most curious about, are the cans of entire, complete  whole.....chickens - minus the giblets and neck, mind you. for $16.45.





Hallowe'en News:  Today is Hallowe'en and the kids up here are so hardy to be going out trick-or-treating in the -15 or so weather. The hamlet announced on the radio  that trick-or-treating will be restricted to between the hours of 4 p.m. and 6 p.m., because of the recent problems with polar bears in town at night. Yikes!

 Just to make you feel warm and cozy, here are a few photos from the walk I took at noon today down to the bay.  As you can see the bay is starting to freeze up. As they say on the Game of Thrones, "Winter is coming, John Snow!"







Thursday 29 October 2015

Friday Night in Cape Dorset



I mentioned my recent foray with Radio Bingo on Facebook tonight and thought I would share my experience with you more fully here.

I have always loved Bingo, even though my most memorable win ever was a frozen turkey at a Catholic school bingo in North Van in the '80's.  I love the rituals and superstitious quirks of the characters with their lucky trinkets encircling their bingo cards, and who could forget hearing the shouts of "legs 11" and "Oh! 69."  I'm not sure why I stopped going, but perhaps it was the smoke-filled rooms.  I haven't been to Bingo in decades.

Last month, I saw an ad posted in the Northmart for Radio Bingo, and my curiosity was piqued, but I was unsure of how Radio Bingo worked.  I asked around and found out that shortly after the 7:00 CBC News, the first game of Bingo is called over the radio.  Everyone sits at home around the radio with their lucky Bingo cards that they purchased earlier in the afternoon at the Northmart for $50--$10 extra for the Bonanza game, plus $10 for an extra sheet of cards.  There are six or seven games played over the evening, and each player has a paper sheet of nine cards each that they play per game and of course, their lucky dauber.   Not having brought such a special item from down south when I moved up here, I was glad to see a nice selection for sale at the Northmart.  I chose red as my lucky blue was sold out.



I was invited to play at  my co-workers home along with a visiting Instructor from the college--we were three ladies who were ready to win!  The first game was pretty tame-- four corners.  Who needs to mark the "Free Space" for this one, I thought. Fortunately for me, the numbers were called in English and not Inuktitut, because I would have been totally lost if it were the latter.  None of us were close on the first game, but the night was young and there was plenty of time.  The next game was one line any way, and the games became more intricate- and more suspenseful- as the evening wore on.  My favourite was the inukshuk shape. I made sure to mark it in pen on my cards, so I would be certain to spot one when I won.  (There is something about having to telephone in via a satellite telephone system that adds suspense to calling Bingo! --"Can I call in in time before the next number is called??")



I shall put an end to your fingernail biting now and end the suspense. No, I didn't win that night, nor did my friends.  I didn't even come close.  But we shared some homemade Strawberry Chiffon cake baked fresh that day, and we had a lot of fun.

Maybe I need to find some lucky trinkets for next time, or maybe even buy a new dauber.... LIKE THESE!!!  Cheers, until next time....Under the O, 69!



Arctic Fox: Rabies Alert

The Nunatsiaq News Online (http://www.nunatsiaqonline.ca/) keeps me informed about Nunavut news and northern perspectives on issues.  It has been particularly interesting during the recent federal election.  Internet speeds are very slow in Nunavut.  So slow, in fact, that streaming is problematic; consequently, Nunavummiut were not able to view any of the online Federal election debates during the election. Now that's democracy in action :)

But here is the real story I wanted to share with you today.  Below is a photo of an Arctic Fox that appeared on the front page of the Nunatsiaq News this morning.  The caption reads: "A perennial favourite among northern photographers: the Arctic Fox.  This one, spotted at the Cambridge Bay dump Oct. 9, is shedding its summer brown fur and patchy tufts of winter white are beginning to show through.  Though there have been an increase in fox sightings lately in the western Nunavut's largest town, there has been no corresponding increase in reports of rabies.  But hamlet officials remain concerned.  Dog owners can get their animals vaccinated against rabies rhrough the hamlet bylaw office or through Diamonds in the Ruff.  Officials are also asking that children abide by a curfew for Halloween by ending their trick-or-treating by 8 p.m. (Photo by Denise Lebleu Images)"  Happy Hallowe'en!


Thursday 15 October 2015

Frost Flowers

I was just checking out the Nunavut online newspaper the NunatsiaqOnline and found this lovely photo of something I have never seen before: Frost Flowers.

According to the paper, "A field of tiny frost flowers grows on the thin ice in Cambridge Bay Oct. 13. For frost flowers to grow, you need a minimum temperature difference of 15 degrees C between the ice surface and the air. Under bright sun and little wind, temperatures in this western Nunavut town ranged between -12 C and -16 C on Oct. 13. (Photo by Jane George)."